Last night I went to a panel discussion about Garage magazine’s Vestimentality project at Somerset House. American writer and cultural critic, Cintra Wilson, was commissioned to write tongue-in-cheek – who am I kidding, downright rude! – manifestos for brands such as Versace, Givenchy and Tom Ford. These slogans were then worked into a final collection of garments by knitwear duo Leutton Postle.
Tom Ford has announced that he will be showing his much anticipated second womenswear collection at London Fashion Week this month.
Those who are expecting a glitzy parade reminiscent of Burberry’s return to London in 2009 will undoubtedly be disappointed. This collection is already mirroring the highly secretive, high-security New York Fashion Week show from last September, which saw Ford return to womenswear after a six-year break. The riotous show banned photography, sending bloggers around the world crazy, had a very exclusive guest list and a plethora of devoted celebrity fans sashayed down the runway.
It seems that for Tom Ford his non-hyped summer collection was too…erm…hyped for his liking. In a statement the brand confirmed the London rumours but announced that there “will only be a small presentation for international monthly magazines.” Dates and location are yet to be revealed and Fashionologie is already reporting that cameras will again be banned, except perhaps for Terry Richardson’s
Tom Ford has put an end to rumours that his long-term friend Carine Roitfeld will be joining him in a new collaborative venture, despite online rumours.
“Carine and I have no plans to work together at the moment, and it is nothing that we have even discussed, but of course I think she is brilliant and we are close friends so who knows about the future,” Ford tells The New York Times.
Roitfeld announced her decision to leave Vogue Paris on Friday after ten years of service.
Tom Ford’s comeback to womenswear after a six year absence is fashion meganews. However the most highly anticipated fashion launch in recent years left fashionistas out on the pavement as only the most V of VIPs were invited to the exclusive event.
When Ford showed the collection in New York on September 12 only 100 fashion royalty guests were invited, photographers weren’t given access and he banned all journalists from revealing the collection. The newly elusive designer, who created the sexed-up Gucci/YSL look in the nineties, is doing things differently this time. In an interview with US Vogue he claims that he despises sections of the press and he objects to the way the internet eats up fashion images before the clothes can be bought. His decision to host an anti-publicity runway tossed bloggers, Twitterers and reporters into a quagmire of frustration. My own report on the non-collection was similarly vague.
US Vogue, December issue
US Vogue, December issue
US Vogue, December issue
Harper’s Bazaar, January issue
Beyonce, Tom Ford s/s 2011
Liya Kebede, Tom Ford s/s 2011
Lauren Hutton, Tom Ford s/s 2011
Stella Tennant, Tom Ford s/s 2011
Daphne Guinness, Tom Ford s/s 2011
However, just weeks before the collection hits stores, the veil surrounding Ford’s spring/summer 2011 collection has been pulled down as the images have finally been released in US Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.
It turns out that the rumours circulating were true. Ford’s most glamorous friends and acquaintances, spanning Hollywood, music, society, and high fashion, had all dropped everything to fly in and model for him. Beyoncé Knowles, Lauren Hutton, Liya Kebede, Rinko Kikuchi, Stella Tennant, Amber Valletta, Natalia Vodianova, Karen Elson, Karlie Kloss, Abbey Lee Kershaw and Julianne Moore, amongst others, showcased a collection which reminded onlookers of Ford’s best collections for Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent.
“There’s a continuity from what I was doing at YSL at the end; that’s the customer,” Ford told US Vogue. “It’s about individuality. Real clothes, real women. For a fashionable woman aged 25 to 75. That’s why I literally put many of my own muses in the show. I hear them say, ‘God, I can’t find that anywhere!’ ”
The full interview with Tom Ford appears in the January issue of Harper’s Bazaar UK, out December 6.
Making a surprise return to the fashion frontline, Tom Ford, who famously reinvented the Gucci brand, hosted a secret runway collection exclusive to 100 people, setting a new standard for the meaning of power in the fashion industry.
Fashion Month is a period when designers are eager to receive as much coverage, column inches and global reach as possible as they show their latest collections to a mass of journalists, celebrities and people-to-impress. However, Tom Ford, who did not appear on any schedules for New York fashion week has, yet-again, turned the fashion rule book on its head by hosting a secret show during New York Fashion Week.