Reading the reviews from this years’ New York Fashion Week (unfortunately students can’t afford the jet-setting lifestyle) there doesn’t seem to be much in terms of inspiration or excitement. I’m not that surprised, honestly there is not a single American designer who wows me. With only two more days of New York Fashion Week left, yesterday it was Michael Kors, Oscar de la Renta, Marchesa, Anna Sui, Proenza Schouler, Peter Som and 3.1 Phillip Lim who were showing.
Oscar De La Renta might not be one of the most inspiring designers, never straying far from his luxury cocoon, but despite recessional headaches he remains true to form for spring 2010. In general, De la Renta seems to have received positive reviews by “embracing fresh and contrasting colour combinations with blue and orange, the aforementioned on elegant dresses cinched by scarlet belts, and recalled the Twenties with cloche hats completing the look,” according to Vogue.
Safari suits in teal satin, embroidered three-quarter length jackets teeming with sequins, and brightly coloured cardigans edged in golden beads all spoke a luxe language and younger customers will enjoy the spotty tutu skirts, cropped chambray jackets, doily effect playsuits and brocade purple houndstooth dresses with puffed sleeves, as well as the frothy tulle ruffles on the finishing evening gowns. According to Vogue, The Oscar de la Renta woman this season mixes her textures with crochet and tweed combined. In general, I do like this collection, I think it’s one of the better ones from this week (this may be because it reminds me of Luella’s spring 2009 collection though).
However, it’s Prosenza Schouler who Drapers appear to be supporting. Sportier aesthetics took to the catwalk at Proenza Schouler, where skirts were seemingly constructed from a shirt or jumper tied around the waist, and where little dresses came in shiny shocking shades. Drapers wrote : “After a number of New York designers failed to ignite imaginations over the pond this week, the cool which oozed from Proenza Schouler’s spring offering made up for some lost ground in the innovation stakes. Designed – it appeared – purely with the rock chick in mind, the duo opted for less ladylike refinery than in previous seasons. A young take on the wraparound shape saw deconstructed tie-dyed shirt dresses cris-cross along the front, and wet look fabrics fold and fall around the hips.
Rounding off the first week of four in a month of collections is Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Threeasfour and Isaac Mizrahi tomorrow.